December is not a time for rest, but the last opportunity to prepare planting material before the onset of severe frosts. Right now, while the ground is not yet deeply frozen, you can propagate raspberries for free. Those same annual shoots that remain after autumn pruning will easily survive the winter under the snow and will produce a harvest in the first year if everything is done correctly.
In regions with stable snow cover, snow sets in in December and lasts until the end of April – beginning of May. This creates ideal conditions for planting cuttings: snow serves as a natural protection against freezing, and moderate cold triggers the stratification processes necessary for rooting.
Which shoots to take
Choose annual, mature shoots with dark brown, smooth bark, free of spots, damage and signs of disease. Thick as a pencil, length – 30–40 cm. Frost-resistant, zoned varieties take root especially well: Bryansk Miracle, Hercules, Patricia, Eurasia, Indian Summer. Do not use green, weak or immature branches; they will not survive the winter.
How to prepare cuttings
- Tie the shoots into bundles of 5–7 pieces.
- Wrap each bunch in 2-3 layers of old newspapers; the paper will retain moisture but prevent the cuttings from rotting.
- Choose a place in the garden on a hill where there is no stagnant water in the spring. It is best near a fence or under the crown of a tree, where the snow lies stable and is not blown away by the wind.
- Dig a trench 25–30 cm deep. This is enough to be below the severe frost zone.
- Lay the bunches horizontally, cover them with soil and cover them well with snow. If there is not enough snow, add a layer of spruce branches, sawdust or old covering material.
- Be sure to stick a peg with a mark; under deep snow it is easy to forget where the planting material is buried.
What happens in winter
At a stable temperature of minus 3–7 degrees under snow, callus, the rudiment of the root system, gradually forms in the tissues of the cuttings. The newspaper decomposes slowly, but retains the necessary moisture until spring. By the time the snow melts (usually in late April – early May), the cuttings are still without roots, but are completely ready for rooting.
Planting in spring
Once the soil dries out a little:
- Carefully dig up the bunches.
- Divide the cuttings and plant them vertically in loose, fertilized soil, deepening them to 2/3 of their length.
- Cover the top with half a plastic bottle for 2-3 weeks – this will protect the young shoots from possible night frosts.
- Water moderately; raspberries do not like stagnant water, especially in damp spring weather.
When to expect the harvest
In remontant varieties, the first berries appear in July. Conventional varieties will give a full harvest in the second year, but the bush will be strong and strong already in the first season.
In this way, in one December day you can prepare dozens of new bushes without growth stimulants. Just nature, a little knowledge and a couple of scraps that would otherwise go to the fire.
Question and answer:
Is this method suitable for black raspberries?
Yes, but it is less frost-resistant. It is recommended to additionally cover with spruce branches or non-woven material.
Do I need to water after planting in the spring?
Only in dry weather. In most cold regions, natural moisture is sufficient in the spring.
