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Without these tricks, the onion will go into the arrow or rot – saving your garden bed

You can grow large, healthy onions by paying a little attention to your beds at critical stages of development. If the feather has reached a height of 15–20 cm, it is time to begin active care. How you take care of your onions now will determine whether they end up in storage or begin to rot in the summer. Here are simple steps to help you achieve great results.

In order for the bulbs to grow large and round, it is important to provide them with space. If the plantings are thickened, the plants will compete for food, forming small “sets” instead of a full-fledged head. Thin the onions so that there is 8–10 cm between the plants. You also need to regularly loosen the soil and remove weeds, especially before the feathers close. Onions love moderate moisture, but absolutely cannot tolerate stagnation of water at the neck. Excess moisture in the first half of summer leads to the development of fungal diseases, and severe drought provokes premature bolting. Until mid-July, watering should be regular. As soon as the bulbs begin to form and slightly peek out of the ground, watering is gradually reduced, and 3 weeks before harvesting is stopped completely so that the scales have time to ripen and dry.

Onions need nitrogen to grow green mass, but its excess is dangerous. The feather will become powerful and dark, and the bulb itself will remain small and loose, poorly stored in winter. At the beginning of growth, apply nitrogen fertilizer, for example, a solution of urea or ammonium nitrate. Fresh manure cannot be used categorically: it provokes diseases and makes onions unsuitable for long-term storage. If the soil has been well amended since the fall, you can do without additional fertilizing or use only potassium-phosphorus fertilizers in the second half of summer.

Prevention of diseases and pests is critical to the safety of the crop. Onion fly and downy mildew can destroy a garden bed in a week. It is recommended to treat the plantings with biological products or a salt solution every 10–14 days to repel pests. To protect the roots, you can mulch the beds with peat or pine litter.

Controlling the neck of the bulb helps prevent rot. You cannot cover the growing point and the bulb itself with soil. If during growth the head protrudes strongly from the soil, lightly sprinkle only the lower part, but do not allow soil to get between the scales. This will ensure good ventilation and rapid maturation of dry integumentary scales.

These simple steps will help you produce large, dry, sharp onions that will store well all winter and delight you and your family.

Question and answer:

Why do onions rot during storage and how to avoid it?
Reasons: cleaning in wet weather, insufficient drying, damage to the neck or infection with fusarium. To avoid losses, follow the watering schedule, carefully dig up the heads and dry them thoroughly for 2-3 weeks in a ventilated place.

How do you know when onions are ready to harvest?
Main signs: lodging of the feather, yellowing and drying of the tops, formation of dense dry scales on the head. Harvest in dry weather and be sure to dry the bulbs before storing.

When to stop watering onions before harvesting?
2-3 weeks before the expected collection date. This allows the formation of dense, dry scales that protect the bulb from rot during long-term storage.

Ashley Davis

I’m Ashley Davis as an editor, I’m committed to upholding the highest standards of integrity and accuracy in every piece we publish. My work is driven by curiosity, a passion for truth, and a belief that journalism plays a crucial role in shaping public discourse. I strive to tell stories that not only inform but also inspire action and conversation.

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