Today, it's hard to imagine a world without clothes. It is thanks to them that we more or less know what suits us, and this allows us to shop faster and more accurately. It used to be completely unnecessary, because the clothes were tailored.
– The clothes size system was created as a result of the need for standardization, which went hand in hand with the development of the clothing industry. Before the creation of mass production, there was no need to operate uniform code, because the clothes were tailor -made or were created in small series, with the possibility of matching them to the figure in the case of higher social classes. Lower class clothes were loose and did not require fitting – explains Dr. Maria Wiatrowska, director of the Institute of Ubior of the Academy of Fine Arts in Łódź.
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From military uniforms
The history of clothing also says that the precursor of sizes, were producers of military uniforms, where the chest circumference marked the standard. – The need to develop similar rules for civil clothing has launched a number of anthtrometric tests to unify the clothes size system, which in the case of men's clothing was not very complicated, and for women's assortments it became a challenge – says Dr. Maria Wiatrowska.
The clothing industry developing at a rapid pace dictated in the 20th century the urgent need to close a lot of types of women's silhouettes in unified numbering. With the help of research involving the measurement of a group of people, an average system was made, which varies depending on the country in which it was created.
– Systems difference results from the history of its creation. Each standard was created independently, as a result of separate research on the control group in a given country. Therefore, a specific number or size symbol corresponds to the fixed dimensions and saved in the size table, but these are not standards that find their counterpart in a different size. We know from experience that the European 38 is often American 36 and British Railways
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“Vanity sizes”
The answer to the question of what size we wear is not easy. And it depends not only on whether we are asked by a resident of England, the United States, where the sizes are completely different, but even a saleswoman in a store in Poland. At one manufacturer you can have the size 42, au other 40. But even in the same store one clothes of the same size can be good for us and others do not.
When asked why the sizes differ even between Polish producers, Dr. Maria Wiatrowska, notes that each clothing brand works on the size table.
– That is why it happens that the assortments signed with the same numbering with one manufacturer fit into a given customer, and another are grossly too small or too large. In this way, brands attach a group of recipients who seem to be tailored to them in a given place. The psychological aspect is crucial here. Customers are more likely to buy where they fit into “smaller” clothes. This conquers a sense of value, gives a sense of comfort, slows down the internal censor. So you should not be frustrated in the opposite situation, when there are better clothes with larger size. The key is a size table, which should always be checked in the case of online purchases, and in the case of stationary purchases to have at the back of the head that these values may vary slightly depending on the brand – says Dr. Maria Wiatrowska.
Also dr inż. Monika Bogusławska-Bączek, prof. Silesian Academy, talks about the so -called “vanity size” phenomenon. – It is a marketing policy of some clothing and retailer manufacturers consisting in deliberately lowering the numbering of clothing products to meet the psychological needs of their clients. The client, trying on clothing in size he had wore so far, suddenly finds out that he is too big for him and that he is currently a smaller size. Being positively surprised, with a significantly improved well -being, he will definitely make a purchase and return again for another clothing – he notes.
The expert also indicates the changes that have occurred in the appearance since anthropometric research, on the basis of which the sizes were determined. – On average, about 3 kg and 10 cm tall came to us, which is as much as in the last two centuries, our feet extended by an average of 20 millimeters, men's buttocks have decreased, but the torso rounded, and the female breasts have grown and shifted lower. Women also have longer legs and a more clearly marked waist, but they are rounder in the hips, by an average of 10 cm. Due to the constant variability of the dimensional characteristics of people, the current tables are already out of date and require significant correction, and in special cases, this applies especially to children and adolescents, complete change – he notes.
Dr. Maria Wiatrowska hopes that there will be changes in the future in terms of size. – Let's hope that the changes taking place globally in the fashion industry, and consisting of a less critical view of the human body, will translate into non -spirits closing within the sizes. Also in the minds of recipients who will stop at all costs to fit in the symbolic “Ixes”, and with respect and good to themselves, they will wisely check what producers offer them – notes the expert.
