Michelin guide. “It's for you if you have money and time to waste”
It started quite unbelievably – from a guide to French roads. In 1900, two brothers, Andre and Edouard Michelin, wanted to increase the sales of tires by promoting a car. Their first book contained practical information, such as maps and locations of mechanics. Later, considering that travelers want fuel for both themselves and their vehicles, she expanded their commands to include restaurants. The company first introduced a system of granting stars in 1926.
Since then, over 30 million copies of the Michelin guide have been sold, which makes him as readable as classics of literature: “It has gone with the wind”, “Wielki Gatsby” or “Pride and prejudice”. Michelin classification has become a standard in the restaurant industry. Only the most exclusive restaurants receive the star – with approx. 11.8 million places serving food in the world at least one star has only 3,647 (or 0.03 percent) of them.
Of these, 82 percent It has one star – it receives a place, “in which dishes with expressive flavors are prepared at an invariably high level.” 13.6 percent He has two stars, in recognition of their “sophisticated and inspiring” offers that show “the personality and talent of the chef”. Three stars have only 149 restaurants – this is the highest distinction. According to Michelin, these are institutions in which “cooking is raised to the rank of art” and chefs are “at the peak of their career”.
Gordon Ramsay, a British chef with eight stars on his account, said that Michelin Awards are for chefs what the Oscars for filmmakers are. Just as Oskar encourages people to watch the movie, so Michelin recognition can increase the number of reservations in the object. Joel Robuchon, who at the time of his death in 2018 had 31 stars on his account, noticed that “with one Michelin star you have about 20 % more profit in business. Two stars are about 40 percent more profit, and three stars – about 100 percent.”
Greater pressure, higher costs, greater criticism
In recent years, however, the star system has lost a bit of its splendor. The status of Michelin as the final arbitrator of the taste seems to be threatened. One of the problems is long -lasting emphasis on exquisite meals. Many people associate Michelin stars with high prices, small portions and pretentiousness. In the discussion about the decorated restaurants on the Reddit social networking site, users complained about “G*wno with tricks”.
As one of the people explained, “you will not appreciate it, unless you have so much money to waste that your time is completely worthless because [oznacza to, że] You have nothing better to do than spending three hours eating two bite. “
Michelin maintains that neither presentation nor exquisite service are a qualifying requirement. He claims that the star can get “any restaurant in any style”. Gwendal Poullennec, the international director of Michelin's guides, emphasizes that the company pays attention to quality, not luxury – for example in May the star was won by a stand selling Taco in Mexico City.
Still Not only customers are discouraged. Part of the premises refuse to accept the prize (Marco Pierre White, a British chef, initiated this trend in 1999. He said that he feels that the assessment process lost its meaning). Giglio in Tuscany won the star in 2019, but Benedetto Rullo, a co -owner, said it voluntarily in 2024, said that the award brought “amazing” stress and introduced a snobbish atmosphere.
“We are not a place where you come to worship stars among chefs,” he said. He added that The highest awards increase the pressure on chefs and increase the costs (suppliers and employees use this as an excuse to demand higher fees).
Menu for thousands, delicacies for pennies
However, the Internet is the biggest challenge for famous decorations because it has democratized culinary criticism. Gourmets can share reviews on pages such as TripAdvisor and Yelp, bloggers create lists of the best local places, influencers issue assessments in social media. Films about eating on thicket have a total of over a billion views.
Influencer Eating with Tod in his films in this application collected over 25 million likes. He shows them how he eagerly eats chicken wings or a tasting menu worth 400 pounds (about PLN 2,000). At a time when almost 80 percent Americans and British claims that food in the city is too expensive, such pages and accounts can show new fashionable places and inexpensive delicacies for gourmets. Inskip often focuses on cheap dishes – some of them can be bought even for 1 pound (PLN 5). Long queues are almost always lining up before the places he recommends in London.
Expansion
After all, Michelin is determined so as not to join the meat in jelly and seafood mousse – and not fall, as they, in culinary forgetfulness. People around the world are becoming more and more brave and curious about food, Michelin also decides to promote a more diverse diet. In 2004, only Europe was shimmering with his stars, headed by France, which has the largest number of distinguished restaurants. Currently, however, Michelin sends reviewers (30 different nationalities) to four continents. The company issues guides in 43 countries. The very number of these guides since 2020 increased by almost 50 percent.
In 2024, Michelin issued inaugural guides through Lithuania and Mexico. Restaurants in Slovenia and Thailand recently received three stars for the first time. Michelin already covers several Chinese cities and expands its activities to the provinces.
In America, 20 years ago, Michelin was only recognized as New York. Currently, gourmets can get recommendations for Atlanta, Chicago and Orlando, among others. Michelin has recently expanded his activity to Texas, which has a growing population. Restaurants in a lonely star state recorded sales worth over $ 100 billion in 2023. (PLN 391 billion) – about $ 20 billion (PLN 78 billion) More than restaurants in New York.
The expansion is directed by market growth and other financial incentives; Places willing to lure gastro-tourists are willing to pay for the prestige of Michelin stars. Travel Texas, part of the governor's office, had its share in bringing the creators of the guide to this state. In 2017, the Thai Tourism Council paid Michelin $ 4.4 million. (PLN 17 million PLN 245,000) In exchange for a series of guides, starting with Bangkok (Michelin emphasizes that “on request” guides are still subject to the same rigors, and countries and states cannot buy stars).
A nod to street sellers of food and vegans
Michelin judges pay attention not only to exquisite kitchen, but also to stalls and “booths” with food. From 1997 The Bib Gourmand award distinguishes restaurants that offer “complete high -quality menu” for “reasonable price”. The company seems to be aware of the importance of this category: there is almost as much Bib Gourmand as restaurants awarded with stars.
Of the 3274 Bib Gourmands 134 of them are street food sellers. Many of them serve Chinese, Mexican, Thai or Vietnamese cuisine: kitchens with the history of cheap, informal meals. Bib Gourmand rewards local, authentic cuisine. According to Pullennec, this is an important trend for consumers. This category is attractive to those who discourage exclusive stars.
The company also meets the needs of a growing group of people who care about the climate. In 2020 Michelin introduced a green starawarded restaurants that show involvement in sustainable development (so far only 608 premises deserved it). Pullennec notes that the restaurants “make every effort” to balance their menu with a plant offer to satisfy 1.5 billion vegetarians and 88 million vegans around the world. One of the best chefs told him that after getting a green star, his restaurant attracted a younger audience who ordered vegetarian dishes.
Everyone can have an opinion, but not everyone can be an authority
Are these efforts enough to keep Michelin on the road for the next century? The company claims that traffic on its website has doubled over the past year, which suggests that Michelin is gradually gaining trust. Time and stability work in his favor.
While culinary influencers can visit the restaurant once – and be paid by the owners for making an enthusiastic video – Michelin experts have a standardized approach (they have to visit the restaurant several times and not tell anyone who they are or that they are going there). Clare Smyth, a British chef who served the wedding of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle, claims that in her Core restaurant representatives of the guide had eight secret visits before she received three stars in 2021.
Today, everyone can have an opinion on food, but not everyone can be an authority. Michelin will always have his critics. Demanding guests will continue to follow him, because – as George Bernard Shaw once wrote, a playwright and a critic – “there is no more sincere love than love for food.”
