“An adventure through the rural dream landscape of Romania.” How to see via Transylvania through the fascinated eyes of a stranger

The provocative route of 870 miles (1,400 kilometers) runs in diagonal Romania and includes mountain meadows, fairy tales and medieval monasteries, writes Damien Gabet, freelance journalist, writer and travel blogger, in a large editorial published on Tuesday in The Guardian and dedicated to the “dream landscape” on Via Transilvanica.

“After about seven minutes on the electric bicycle, the first signs of addiction became obvious. As I climb the Ceetous hills in Bukovina, in the north of Romania, the” Power Assist “button of my bicycle resembled a morphine dispenser. Sergiu, the guide of my group, knew what I have. Great has hidden under the handlebar, ”he says.

“In the previous adventures I resisted the assistance, claiming that the battery supply is the presses of the non -serious ones. But (…) On these dizzying hills the additional engine was almost essential. But, as in all drugs, moderation is essential. After all, you would not want to run out of energy on the hills,” he writes.

Damien Gabet states that he was invited to take part in the first walk and hiking, on an Ebike, organized by the travel operator Slow Cyclist along a section of Via Transilvanica in Romania.

Nicknamed the “East Camino”, this route brings together old commercial roads and paths used by animals, stretching southwest from Putna, near the border with Ukraine, to the village of Drobeta-Turnu Severin, 1,400 km away, and at a short distance from Serbia.

“Romania traveling in time”

Equally, ecotouristic attraction, artistic project and economic line, via Transilvanica is a route with a story behind, says Gabet.

The route was conceived by the ecologist Alin Ușeriu and his brother, Tiberiu (who was in the past for armed robbery, and is now a famous ultramaratonist), who “have successfully overcome corruption, mafia interests and natural obstacles of the Carpathian mountain chain.”

“It is both a triumph of resistance and route planning,” he notes.

“For four and a half years, defying the chances, they carved a path that unites seven regions, with the help of hundreds of volunteers. The result? An irresistible invitation to lose you in the rural landscape of Romania,” Gabet says.

How the British blogger reflects the Transylvanian Via Experience:

“After I was hardly convinced to attend a family wedding at home, I came to this adventure two days. By chance, this meant that I missed a huge storm, which had watered the others in my group the day before. I reached the last, slightly wounded by the wind, but well-disposed, in front of a 16th century monastery in Vatra Moldoviței, about 30 kilometers south of Putna. This is one of the eight churches in the region registered on the UNESCO list, which are unique due to their exterior frescoes, which were designed, Sergiu told us, as “Bibles for illiterates”. These were remarkably well preserved due to an intelligent architecture and elegant paint. The blue of Voronet, made from the Lapis Lazuli rare, still shines.

Some parts of the route are too steep and slippery, being intended only for the most advanced cyclists, so I approached the morning section. The rain had calmed down and the air was full of wet conifers, exotic soil and wooden smoke. The views were already at the height of the instantaneous in the Slow Cyclist brochure: Swiss mountain meadows, peaks with pins and farms that would find their place in a horror movie by Robert Eggers.

The bells of the cows were heard and I soon realized that they were driven by the shepherd dogs of Bucovina, who defend the flocks of wolves, bears and … hikers. “Stay in the group or they will think they have separated you,” Sergiu warned us. The beasts approached slowly, barking, but the bag with sweets prepared by Sergiu kept quiet.“

“I took it down the valley-with my heart beating with power-watching the bicycle fog among the trees. Unfortunately, I did not see bears, but I pedaled excellently.”

“If you are hiking or ride a bicycle on these hills, Sergiu is a good man to drive you. In addition to the fact that he was born in the mountains, he was chosen by Tășuleasa Social-the NGO led by the Ușeriu brothers-to map via Transilvanica from the perspective of a cyclist. He properly made a recognition of the 870 miles on two wheels. “If you do not know the route, you can die,” he warned. “Some climbs are almost vertical.” Indeed, this is the debut route in the new Expedition A Slow Cyclist series-built for more adventurous cyclists, rather than for those who prefer to have lunch after a light bicycle tour.

That being said, our lunch stops were of a simple beauty: sausages, tomatoes of an intense red and homemade cheeses. With the plum pitch on the table, I felt strengthened for the afternoon. Support vehicles and a friendly team were close, with pumps and allen kei (Imbus, no) before we start again.

«We are about to climb a slope. Does anyone want something sweet? ”Sergiu asked. While I was burning calories to a rudimentary ski station, with another wonderful view, I was grateful for the nuts he had distributed. So much open space and no soul in sight. I checked with those in my group and only met three other hikers from the beginning of the trip.

The next morning started with an easy road through meadows sprinkled with dome -shaped hay. Then, without too many warnings, I went down to an ancient forest-the kind that seems to be the decoration of a story of the Grimm brothers. “What does he live here?” I asked. “Bears, deer, sometimes even lying,” Sergiu said with a casualty. “But you will be lucky to see them.”

The forest marked my first attempt by Single-Track Riding. I was intentionally behind, letting the others slip in front, then I took it down-with the tongue, with a heart beating-watching the bicycle fog among the trees. Unfortunately I didn't see bears but I pedaled excellently“.

“The road signs are guarding every kilometer of the route.” It is the longest art gallery in the world “”

“Here I noticed the anthracite slabs of 250 kilograms, road signs made by different sculptors, who are guarding every kilometer of the route. Each of them is carved and marked with a bold orange (from Transylvania). “It is the longest art gallery in the world,” says Iancu, our second guide. “The route was built by volunteers – people who gave up their free time for something more important than them, so I think that says a lot.”

One of the missions via Transylvania is to stop the flow of people leaving the rural areas, giving them a reason to stay or even return. At noon, on the second day of travel, with Iancu translating, I talked to our host, who told me that the number of visitors he receives has increased six times since the opening of the route, in 2022.

The accommodation that night at the pension La Moara – all carved wood and Alpine dreams – reminded again of Switzerland. At dinner, I could not resist a second portion of dumplings: gray dumplings with meat, floating in a dill full soup. The main dishes were chicken paprika and a huge bunch of muffins, mixed with unpasteurized cheese from the flock of our hosts.

On the last day, the afternoon tour took place on a ski slope, and the different levels of physical training of the group have become more obvious. The fingers stood above the assistance button, but even in maximum power it was a challenge. So far, I had found my pace (…). Others were tormenting, however, which made things stop a little. I would advise you to check, before you register, if the others in the group are more or less at your level.

However, the Slow Cyclist team has found a wonderful balance between cardio and culture, offering a warm perspective on the past and present of Romania-through an adventure in the mud, in its rural dream landscape. For three days, I pedaled through fairy -tale landscapes and ate like a happy Saxon farmer. I have already swore to go back to go even more from the route.

We climbed the final hill in a free line, panting and stopped while Sergiu became friends with a farmer watching the cows, with a milk bucket. He offered us to drink. “No, thank you,” I said. «But do you have plum rack?».

The Slow Cyclist offers a five-night Bucovina expedition, with prices starting at 1,750 pounds per person, based on a group of 12 people, including the road from the airport, a support vehicle and luggage transport, local English speakers, five nights, all meals and activities, as well as lease. There are regular departures scheduled between June and November, and private group tours can be organized on request, according to the description on theslowcyclist.com.“