A restaurant that boasts of being run by the world's first “AI chef” has just opened its doors in the wealthy emirate of Dubai, sparking curiosity and skepticism about technology's ability to rival human creativity in the kitchen.
Located at the foot of the glittering downtown skyscrapers, Woohoo welcomes its customers in a setting that seems straight out of science fiction: from the entrance, where they are greeted by a holographic screen of the “AI chef”, named Aiman and represented as a blond man wearing technological glasses that hide his eyes, to the room lit by holograms and futuristic projections.
Everything is controlled by artificial intelligence thanks to a large cylindrical machine, presented by the restaurant as a supercomputer, that sits in the middle of the room.
The star of the show, “chef Aiman”, is a specialized artificial intelligence model developed by a company in the United Arab Emirates. He doesn't cook, but designs the dishes, trained on thousands of recipes and decades of research in the culinary arts and molecular gastronomy, according to the restaurant.
“Maybe one day AI will create better dishes than humans,” says Woohoo co-founder Ahmet Oytun Cakir from Turkey.
“Dinosaur Tartare”
Although the menu mainly offers dishes inspired by international fusion cuisine, the “AI chef” stands out with certain signature dishes, such as the so-called “dinosaur tartare”, which is supposed to give the taste of the extinct animal based on the study of its DNA.
This appetizer, whose recipe is kept secret and which tastes like a combination of raw meat, is offered at the price of 215 dirhams (about 50 euros) in a pulsating plate that gives the impression that it is breathing.
“It was a real surprise. It was absolutely delicious,” testified one of the customers, Efe Urgunlu.
At the stove, live chefs make the recipes and can tweak them if necessary.
“If I taste a dish and it's too spicy, I go back to chat with 'Chef Aiman.' After discussion, we end up finding the perfect balance,” explained head chef Serhat Karanfil.
“Artificial intelligence has no feelings or memories”
Although Woohoo's co-founder dreams of turning his “AI chef” into “the next Gordon Ramsay,” after the famous British chef, such advanced use of artificial intelligence in the kitchen is far from universally accepted in the industry.
“There is no such thing as an AI chef,” says Syrian chef Mohamad Orfali, whose Dubai restaurant Orfali Bros earned a star in the prestigious Michelin guide last year.
“I don't believe in that,” he told AFP, stressing the importance in the kitchen of “nafas,” an Arabic term that refers to a chef's very personal ability to create dishes full of soul and emotion.
“Artificial intelligence has no feelings or memories (…) It cannot infuse this energy into the preparations,” said this professional, who admits that he himself uses AI, but to carry out research or administrative tasks.
“We use her as an assistant in the kitchen, but in the end she doesn't cook,” he insisted.
The restaurant, popular on the internet
However, the concept attracts a clientele accustomed to the extravagances of Dubai, an ultra-connected and up-to-date megalopolis.
“Everyone supports these kinds of ideas here in Dubai,” assured Ahmet Oytun Cakir.
The restaurant quickly became popular on social media, with an Instagram account dedicated to the “AI chef”, where his avatar appears to share tips and recipes.
The publicity prompted Dio, a customer who preferred not to reveal her name, to try the experience.
“The concept is so creative that I thought I had to try it (…) The food was amazing,” she said.
